Beneath the mantle of glitz and glamour, Dubai's subtle and seductive charms could easily be overlooked. But lift the cloak of this glittering diamond city, and the essence of Arabia is quickly found in the lively, chaotic and traditional souqs centred around the Creek, the heart of this ancient trading port. Delve a little deeper and you'll find the essence of a people fiercely proud of their desert heritage. 'No man', wrote the British explorer Sir Wilfred Thesiger of his travels across the Arabian sands, 'can live this life and emerge unchanged...He will carry, however faint, the imprint of the desert.'

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